Mining inspiration from Brognano’s teen years, when he worshipped the likes of Spears and Hilton, his looks for Blumarine hit on many of the things young women wanted post-lockdown—but most of all, to be seen. With flirty dresses, strappy sandals, and fur-trimmed cardigans in rotation, it was social media catnip, made to be consumed behind a screen and worn for a world poised to reopen.
It helped that Brognano tapped Lotta Volkova, the stylist behind some of fashion’s most influential brands, to style his runway. Volkova, who worked on the likes of Vetements and Balenciaga, has an instinct to create trends rather than follow them. In her case, she went all-in on the early-’00s references, doubling down season after season in anticipation for Spring/Summer 2022. The resulting collection is an explosion of Y2K fantasies—its asymmetrical chiffon hems, oversized butterfly motifs, see-through baby tees, pastel-tinged sunglasses, and belly-baring trousers spun onlookers into a nostalgic reverie.